Our Incredible First 2 Days in Tokyo: Exploring Shinjuku, Harajuku, Asakusa and Shibuya
When we landed in the vibrant and electrifying city of Tokyo, I felt like we were in a videogame and an anime. I couldn’t shake that feeling. Maybe it was the music playing at the train stations, or the green trains — it felt unreal to arrive and abide in a city where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with futuristic innovation.
Jaime and I spent our first 4 nights in Japan in the metropolis of Tokyo and fell in love with the neon signs, diners, bars, street food, and the culture all round.
In this blogpost, I’ll be sharing our experiences in our unforgettable first three days in Tokyo, focusing on the iconic neighborhoods of Shinjuku, Harajuku, Asakusa, and Shibuya. Whether you're a new traveler planning your trip to Japan or just looking to relive the magic, I hope our experiences will give you valuable insights and tips for making the most of your time in this incredible concrete jungle.
A quick overview of our itinerarY & the content of this travel blog:
Day -1: Our last night in Sydney
Day 0.1: A smooth departure
Day 0.2: Logistics upon arrival
Pocket Wifi
JRail Passes
Day 1.1: Exploring Harajuku
Meiji Shrine
Harry’s Hedgehog Cafe
Mocha Cat Cafe
Day 1.2: Visiting Ikebukuro
Day 1.3: Falling in love with Shinjuku
Piss Alley
The Golden Gai
Day 2.1: Exploring Tokyo Sky Tree
Day 2.2: Walking through the streets of Asakusa
Senso-ji temple
Day 2.3: Getting immersed in the streets of Shibuya
Shibuya Crossing
Trendy Shops
Day -1: our last night in Sydney
We had a gorgeous Italian take-away dinner for our last supper with my sister and her partner who agreed to house sit and take care of our baby girl Mila Rose (the cutest little black cat who isn’t the friendliest little girl).
Leading up to our trip, both of us were working long hours to make sure that we could tidy up as much work as we could before we delegated (and Jaime handed over his role before taking annual leave). And the night before our trip was no different.
I forced myself to clock off at 9.00pm so that we could have dinner and finalise packing (which I hadn’t done til that night). Though I had left a lot of work un-done, I learnt to accept that nothing in life is ever perfect, and that allowed me to sleep at night :)
Day 0.1: a smooth departure
On the 15th of June, Jaime and I woke up at 3.00am to get ready to leave home by 3.30am to Sydney Airport. It was dark, cold and felt a little surreal that our trip was finally happening. We’d only finished packing the night before (and if we’re really being honest - the morning that we’d left).
We got to the airport with plenty of time to spare (thanks to Jaime’s amazing dad - shout out to Leon) - and we headed to weigh our bags and check in for our first flights which would land in Cairns.
Cairns International Airport was wonderful. It was tropical, surrounded by mountains and humid. Even in winter, it was warm and stuffy. A nice change from the cold of Sydney and a good taste of what Japan would be like.
After a well-needed coffee and a simple breakfast, we boarded our second flight which was scheduled to arrive in Narita around 8.00pm JST. The flight was smooth, we were too exhilarated to realise how tired we actually were. And we embraced that feeling of being in the air, on a plane, travelling to a country we had never been to before.
It wasn’t long before a classic Chloe situation happened on our flight. It was that time of the month for me, and I had forgotten to pack any sanitary goods. Without going into too much detail, I had unknowingly embarrassed myself with a public leak on the plane - and tried everything I could to cover up to avoid any unwarranted attention. Bless my soul.
Day 0.2: logistics upon Arrival
As soon as we arrived at Narita International Airport, it felt unreal. We were there. In Japan. For the first time ever, about to embark on a whooping 5.5 week trip. Just him and I. Travelling abroad for the first time since we’d been together.
Jaime and I seamlessly picked up our luggage, breathed a sigh of relief knowing that nothing was broken, lost or stolen — then we headed straight to pick up our pocket wifi (that we’d booked prior) from a stall at the airport.
Once we had our wifi, I checked my work emails and responded to some more urgent matters whilst Jaime attempted to withdraw money from his international credit card. Having the pocket wifi also meant that I could use Google Translate to head to the nearest Chemist to make my first purchase: a pack of tampons. I was nervous to use my broken Japanese and a bit of sign language to make my first purchase. But all was well.
I successfully retrieved my necessities and met Jaime in front of the JR Ticket Office (A.K.A. The Midori-no-madoguchi). After we picked up our pocket wifi, withdrew some cash to sustain us over the next couple of weeks and I had fixed myself up, the last thing we needed to before leaving the airport was to activate our JRail Passes (essentially our unlimited train tickets that allowed us to use the JR Line for 21 days of our trip).
JR Passes
Jaime pre-ordered, booked, paid for and organised our JRail passes sent to us in the mail to our home address before we had left for Japan. It’s important that you have the documents delivered before you land in the country, so make sure to order it in advance.
He packed the confirmation documents we were sent with our booking and stood in line for a while to retrieve our physical JRail passes.
When we got our passes, we were surprised that they were just a little piece of paper (thick paper) — for something so expensive, it felt flimsy to have the pass in the form of an easily breakable (let alone lose-able) paper ticket. As Japan is so technologically advanced, I expected the pass would be a digital tap and go option like the system we have in Australia with Opal, or just on our generic Visa or Mastercards.
But nevertheless, we did our due diligence to take extra care of them as they would be our bread and butter over the first half of our trip. And those bad boys took us to our first accommodation in a humble suburb in the heart of Shinjuku: Takadanobaba.
*Tip for JRail Passes:
If you book your JR Pass through the official website, it can be a little more expensive. Booking through a third party agency might offer you some deals. But the perks of booking through the official JRail website means that you can use the app that’s compatible with the JR Train line, and also receive discounts for certain car-rental companies which can be handy if you want to rent a car during your time in Japan.
You can purchase JRail passes for either: 7, 14 and 21 days. We went with the 21 day pass, as it suited our itinerary, and it costed us roughly $678 AUD per person at the time of purchase (which doesn’t include other costs, like delivery).
We read that the cost of JRail passes will rise in October 2023, so these costs may be well outdated by the time you read this blog. Please do your research first!
By the time we had sorted our pocket wi-fi, cash, JRail passes and got to our AirBnB, it was 10pm JST. Exhausted but still excited, we quickly popped our bags in our accomodation and went for a walk around town for a late dinner.
We found a beautiful restaurant that felt very local (we had to take our shoes off and sit on the floor in a traditional Japanese booth). We had shabu-shabu, which is like hot-pot with HighBalls. Dinner and drinks cost us around $60 AUD.
We loved our experience at dinner. Our host spoke very little English so we relied a lot on Google Translate, but it added to the fun of it all. We crashed hard that night after a huge day of travelling. Before our 20,000 step days in Tokyo began.
Day 1.1: Exploring Harajuku
On our first full day in Tokyo, our adventure began in our humble suburb of residence: Takadanobaba. We headed to our local 7 Eleven (which was a 2 minute walk) and attempted to buy our first ice-coffees. I had binge watched a whole heap of “Japan Vlog” videos on YouTube and found that a lot of foreigners found Japan’s 7 Eleven fascinating. It was fun making our first joint-purchase and enjoying an ice-cold coffee on a warm summer morning before we headed out for a walk to explore the city.
As much as we love ice-coffee, it wasn’t enough for us, so we stopped by a cafe up the top of the street to order a couple of stronger coffees and pulled Google Maps out to plan out our day. After a little bit of scheming, we decided on the first shrine we would visit: Meiji Shrine in Harajuku.
Meiji Shrine
Harajuku is a bustling district known for its vibrant atmosphere and iconic landmarks. It was awesome to escape the hustle and bustle of the train stations and find tranquility in Meiji Shrine, a serene oasis in the heart of the city.
We strolled through beautifully manicured gardens, admired the huge, beautiful sake barrels and took some time to soak it all up. Meiji Shrine was a perfect spot to recharge and soak in the natural beauty that Tokyo has to offer.
After we were mesmerised by Meiji Shrine, we had a quick look on Google Maps and found that there was a Hedgehog Cafe close by. I’d mentioned to Jaime that I really wanted to visit a Hedgehog Cafe, so it was a no-brainer that we headed there next.
Harry’s Hedgehog Cafe
Nestled in the lively district of Harajuku, Tokyo, Harry's Hedgehog Cafe offers a one-of-a-kind animal experience. Harry's Hedgehog Cafe is a charming space dedicated to these adorable, spiky creatures: hedgehogs. As soon as we stepped inside, we were greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere, with soft lighting and a tranquil ambiance.
The cafe provided a safe and comfortable environment for us. We got a free drink upon arrival, and were introduced to our first spikey friends soon after. both visitors and its beloved hedgehog residents.
The staff members seemed quite knowledgeable and passionate about hedgehogs and did their best to guide us in English on how to handle them gently and ensure the hedgehogs have a positive experience too. There were soft cushions, soothing music and ethical guidelines to ensure the hedgehogs are given ample rest time to prevent any stress or harm.
We left Harry’s Hedgehog Cafe buzzing and in awe of how exquisite our little spikey friends were. And as we took a couple of steps, I couldn’t help but notice a sign indicating that there was a cat cafe on the first floor of the next building. I’m a crazy cat mum. We had to go.
Mocha Cat Cafe
As soon as we stepped into Mocha Cat Cafe, it was calming. There was natural warm light, light jazz music and a warm and inviting ambiance. The cafe's interior was thoughtfully designed to create a comfortable and relaxing environment for both visitors and resident cats. Soft lighting, soothing music, and comfortable seating all contributed to the overall serene atmosphere.
There were a beautiful range of friendly and affectionate cats. From playful kittens to calm and relaxed adult cats, each resident had their own unique personality and charm. As we got to pat, feed and play with the cats using various toys and accessories provided, we could soon see their individual quirks, from energetic antics to gentle purring.
We could clearly see that the resident cats at Mocha Cat Cafe were very happy and comfortable. Everything in the cafe was cat friendly, climbing poles, scratching poles, blankies, a water fountain, optional snacks that we could buy for the cats, and plenty of feathers and toys that we could use to play with them.
Mocha Cat Cafe was also really well designed for guests too. With a cozy lounge area where we could unwind with a drink, read a book (there were massive shelves of books that we could borrow and read during our time there), or simply enjoy the calming presence of the cats. The cafe provides a selection of beverages and light snacks for you to savor while you spend quality time with your furry friends.
I could have stayed there forever, but we weren’t going to be in Tokyo forever. So we said our goodbyes, and headed to our next stop: Ikebukuro.
Day 1.2: visiting ikebukuro
Unpopular opinion: Ikebukuro wasn’t my favourite part about Tokyo - but it might be because we headed straight to the shopping centre right after being immersed in Meiji Shrine and meeting cute hedgehogs and cats.
Here’s a more non-biased outline: Ikebukuro is renowned for its vast array of shopping options, ranging from large department stores to trendy fashion boutiques. Home to iconic shopping centers such as Sunshine City, Ikebukuro houses numerous shops, restaurants, an aquarium, and an observation deck with breathtaking city views. The bustling streets surrounding the Ikebukuro Station, where you'll find everything from high-end fashion brands to unique Japanese goods.
I’m not personally a massive anime and manga enthusiast, but if you are, Ikebukuro is apparently an absolute must-visit. The neighborhood is famous for its anime-related attractions, including the massive Anime and Manga district of Otome Road where you can browse through countless anime and manga shops, find limited-edition merchandise, and even visit themed cafes dedicated to popular series.
We didn’t get to experience the manga and anime side of Ikebukuro, but went in the shopping centre to find the famous Pokemon Cafe, Pokemon Centre and Merch store. It was vibrant and fun, but I personally felt it didn’t match up to the hype. After this little segment, we headed back to our AirBNB in Takodanababa to rest for an hour before we headed out to my favourite city in Tokyo: Shinjuku.
Day 1.3: falling in love with Shinjuku
When it comes to discovering the heart and soul of Tokyo, few neighborhoods can match the vibrant energy and diverse offerings of Shinjuku.
Nestled within the bustling metropolis, these districts are home to an array of unique attractions, from hidden alleys filled with cozy bars to lively entertainment hubs. We started our evening at the charming Piss Alley and the iconic Golden Gai to immerse ourselves in Japanese city culture.
*What is Piss Alley?
Nestled in the heart of Shinjuku, Piss Alley (known locally as "Omoide Yokocho") is a narrow alleyway that captivates visitors with its intimate atmosphere and traditional izakayas (Japanese-style pubs). Despite its peculiar name, Piss Alley is far from a distasteful place. Its history dates back to post-war Japan when locals sought refuge in small, clandestine eateries and bars.
Piss Alley beckons food enthusiasts with its mouth-watering selection of local delicacies. I really felt like we had an authentic culinary experience. We ordered a mix of various yakitori (grilled skewered chicken) and a cold sake to share at one of the small eateries lining the alley. It was definitely an intimate dining experience as the diner was so small.
We were lucky to find a spot, as even if there are diners lined up one after another, most of them were very small - and very full. If you’re planning to visit Shinjuku, it’s definitely worth prioritising Piss Alley to try the melt-in-your-mouth grilled meat skewers and pair them with a glass of sake for the perfect combination.
*What is the Golden Gai?
Nestled in Shinjuku's vibrant streets, the Golden Gai stands as a testament to Tokyo's nostalgic past. Comprised of six narrow alleys, this hidden gem is home to over 200 unique bars, each with its own distinct character and ambiance. The area's name, "Golden Gai," originates from its golden age during the 1960s, where it thrived as an artistic and intellectual hub.
Stepping into the Golden Gai for me, felt like entering a time capsule. Despite its small size, the neighborhood houses an eclectic mix of bars, ranging from cozy jazz lounges to punk rock hideaways. You could pick from a huge range of themed establishments, sip on artisanal cocktails, and engage in lively conversations with locals and fellow travelers.
Harajuku, Ikebukuro and Shinjuku were a few of Tokyo's many captivating neighborhoods. We loved our time exploring the little nooks and crannies of each area, even if it was just all squeezed within one day. We got to glimpse into the city's vibrant culture and unique character all within a very short period of time.
Whether you choose to visit a cat or hedgehog cafe, wander through the cozy lanes of Piss Alley or immerse yourself in the nostalgic atmosphere of Golden Gai, these hidden gems are sure to leave an indelible mark on your Tokyo adventure. Make sure to indulge in authentic culinary experiences, engage with locals, and discover the richness of Tokyo's nightlife.
Now, we’re on to day 2 in Tokyo.
Day 2.1: exploring Tokyo Skytree
Jaime and I left home around 9.00am JST and walked around our neighbourhood like wide-eyed children before heading to the train station to head to Tokyo SkyTree. We were still in awe of the simplest things like the chemists, street signs and Pachinko (a Japanese gambling arena).
We used Google Maps quite a bit to navigate which trains to take and how to get to each destination. It actually was quite helpful. Helpful might even be an understatement. It was very helpful - we would have been toast without Google Maps.
We also would have been toast without our JRail passes in the first week too. We used our passes religiously during our time in Tokyo, so it was good to know that our investment was worth it.
Tokyo SkyTree
Located in the Sumida Ward, Tokyo Skytree dominates the skyline with its striking presence and captivating allure. Tokyo Skytree is an architectural marvel that is one of the world's tallest towers. Standing at the top of Tokyo Tower gave us the extraordinary opportunity to see breathtaking panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis.
We took this leg of our trip quite spontaneously, so didn’t book tickets prior. When we got to Tokyo SkyTree, we could see there was a massive line at the ticket station. Instead of waiting, we booked tickets online on the spot — and were able to skip the queue which was handy.
I could see that the monument was designed with a fusion of traditional Japanese aesthetics and modern architectural marvel. The interior and exterior design were both sleek and elegant. The tower's impressive height was a pretty awesome a testament to human engineering, and allowed us to see some pretty impressive sights from the observation deck too.
Jaime and I ascended nervously to the Tembo Deck (which is the first observation deck) where we were greeted with stunning 360-degree views of Tokyo's sprawling urban landscape. Even if it was the first floor, we were very, very high above the sea level. Both of us having a fear of heights, we felt like that challenge was enough for us.
With floor-to-ceiling windows and an open-air terrace, we felt both terrified and in awe of the city's mesmerizing sights. There were interactive exhibits and displays throughout the deck which gave us fascinating insights into Tokyo's history, culture and landmarks too.
We walked across the glass floor nervously and got a cute photo taken in front of it too. Tokyo SkyTree reminded me of Centrepoint Tower in Sydney, but a with slightly more substantial view and excitement to it as we were in Japan.
Day 2.2: walking through the streets of Asakusa
After we were mesmerised by the incredible views at Tokyo SkyTree, we stopped by a local 7 Eleven and had our daily ice-creams: two different variations of red bean and vanilla ice cream in a waffle sandwich. It was getting pretty hot by mid-day so the ice-creams were a necessity. After walking around 20 minutes, we finally made it to Asakusa.
Asakusa
Located on the eastern bank of the Sumida River, Asakusa is a district in Tokyo that effortlessly combines old-world charm with modern vibrancy. Steeped in rich history and cultural significance, this neighborhood offers visitors a captivating journey through time. I personally loved Asakusa. The rows and rows of markets, the fashion, restaurants, ice-cream shops and cafes. I could go on and on about the vibes of the neighbourhood, but I won’t. I’ll show you instead, on our Japan Diaries vlog series (cheeky plug).
Senso-ji temple
At the heart of Asakusa lies the iconic Senso-ji Temple, one of Tokyo's oldest and most revered Buddhist temples. As we walked towards the temple's imposing gate: Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), we were greeted by a colossal, gigantic red lantern and the statues of Fujin and Raijin, the gods of wind and thunder.
We walked through magnificent main hall of Senso-ji, where we saw quite a lot of people partaking rituals such as purifying themselves with incense and making wishes.
We loved exploring Nakamise-dori: a bustling shopping street filled with traditional shops and stalls offering a wide array of souvenirs, snacks, and traditional crafts. Which is totally up my alley. Artsy and vibrant. It kind of reminded me of Newtown in Sydney, but a boutique-market version.
We walked past stalls and stalls of artsy clothes, souvenirs and stopped by a wallet and bag shop run by a friendly, tan gentleman who wore fluro green sneakers. We ended up buying a little leather coin wallet - as we knew that we’d be handling cash in the next 5 weeks we’d spend here in Japan (more than we would have in the past 5 years at home in Sydney).
We took some time to soak it all in before deciding to head back home to rest for an hour or so before heading back out to the hustling city at night for dinner.
Day 2.3: getting immersed in the streets of Shibuya
Shibuya was a city I was personally really looking forward to. Frank Ocean sang about getting tattoos in Shibuya, I saw photos all over Pinterest and Instagram of the iconic crossing, a couple of Jaime’s video games took place in Shibuya — we just had to go, and we did.
Shibuya crossing
Shibuya was another world. A bustling district located in the heart of Tokyo, Shibuya is a vibrant hub of energy, fashion, and youth culture. The city is known worldwide for its iconic pedestrian crossing (which we loved just witnessing and walking across in all its chaotic glory).
Shibuya Crossing, often referred to as "the Scramble," was a sight to behold. As the traffic lights turned red in all directions, the intersection became a mesmerising dance of people crossing from multiple angles.
*Tips for experiencing the Shibuya Crossing
Join the crowd, step onto the pedestrian crossing, and experience the exhilarating rush of crossing paths with thousands of pedestrians from street level, or escape the rush of it all and enjoy the view from the elevated vantage point at the Starbucks overlooking the crossing for an unforgettable photo opportunity.
Trendy Shops
Shibuya is home to countless department stores, trendy boutiques, and flagship stores of international fashion brands. We went for a walk around the narrow streets to discover unique independent boutiques, vintage shops, stylish cafés and an eerie but interesting “church bar”.
I literally stopped at the doors of the church, surprised that there was such an old-school, brick church monument in the heart of a neon-lit skyscraper street — only to realise that it was a bar. With dim lights, techno music and waitresses dressed as nuns. It was so creepy we had to go.
Being fairly early, it wasn’t busy (which added to the eeriness of it). There were rows of pews that you could sit on to sip whatever alcoholic beverage you ordered and a dance floor that was empty when we arrived. After enjoying a gin and tonic, we made a move to find something for dinner.
We could clearly see that Shibuya comes alive after dark with its vibrant nightlife scene. Dotted with clubs, bars, and live music venues, it was actually quite hard to find a restaurant that had space for two.
We walked around trying to find somewhere with availability and stumbled across the famous Love Hotel Hill, which was interesting to say the least. Hypnotised by the countless billboards and giant screens showcasing the latest fashion, music, and pop culture — we finally found a little ramen place that had a short line, and had our first meal in Shibuya.
On our way back home, we walked passed the statue of Hachiko, who was a loyal dog who faithfully waited for his deceased owner at Shibuya Station every day. Even after his owner had passed away. There are graffiti and paint murals at the station entrance and lots of stickers of the gorgeous dog to commemorate a touching tribute. Hachiko had become a symbol of loyalty and is a popular meeting spot.
There you have it, our whirlwind 2 day adventure through Tokyo's iconic neighborhoods of Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Asakusa, and Shibuya. In just a couple of days, we experienced a myriad of vibrant lights, embraced the unique subcultures, indulged in mouthwatering cuisine, and soaked in the electrifying atmosphere of this incredible city.
We spent one more full day in Tokyo, exploring Tokyo Disney Sea - which I felt deserved a full blogpost to itself. So, that’s 4 nights at our first AirBNB in Takadanobaba which was the perfect spot for us to explore different pockets of the city.
If you read this far into the blog post, I hope it was insightful! Whether you're a first-time traveler or returning to Japan, I have a good feeling that Tokyo's dynamic energy and diverse character will leave you enchanted. From the tranquility of Meiji Shrine to the boutique markets in Asakusa and the bustling neon lights and billboards of Shibuya, each neighborhood has its unique charm.
We hope this travel blog / Tokyo guide has provided you with valuable insights, tips, and a taste of what awaits you in Tokyo. Make sure to grab your walking shoes, prepare your senses for overload, and get ready to immerse yourself in the awe-inspiring wonders of this captivating metropolis. If you’re heading to Tokyo anytie soon, I hope you travel safe, and enjoy your unforgettable time in Japan!
Love,
Chloe